Ubeda, synagogues and Jewish houses
There is so much to see in monumental Úbeda that, with every step you take, it is difficult not to feel overwhelmed by such prolific displays of heritage. This is why we suggest a special way of discovering the city, following the traces left by the Jewish culture during the centuries of the late Middle Ages and which, possibly, made it one of the largest Hispanic Jewish quarters of the time.
This walking tour will help you realise that Úbeda is impregnated with elements and symbols representing the Jewish people, a people that until their exodus brought economic and social prosperity to the city. Homes with Hebrew signs on their façades recall that heritage, especially in the narrow alleyways of the Alcázar neighbourhood, between whose strongly fortified walls the Jewish quarter was located. Next to the Torreón del Portillo del Santo Cristo you will also find a house with Stars David on the doorway, intertwined to form a 12-pointed figure. It is precisely these well-known symbols of Judaism that show you the path to follow, as if you were ancient navigators guided by constellations of stars embedded in each of the houses. This is the case of the popular House of the Moon and the Sun, near the Church of Santo Domingo, which may well have belonged to an alchemist.
A walk along the Gradeta de Santo Tomás, with its wide steps, is a must. Located next to the ruins of the Church of Santo Tomás, where the late father of Francisco de los Cobos used to lay, we find two houses with two six- and twelve-pointed stars of David. The second one is known as the house of the Jew Samuel, "almojarife" (royal officer) of King Alfonso X. Then you should go down a little hill, to the bottom of the alley. And, where a viewpoint opens on the wall, you can enjoy the breath-taking view of a sea of olive trees with the Sierra de Cazorla mountains in the background.
On Cuesta de los Carbajales we come across what seems to be Solomon's Synagogue, a house built in the style of ancient Jewish houses. Some interesting features include the "Chair of the Prophet Elijah", which was used for circumcision and is located on the ground floor, and the oratory, which is divided into two spaces, one for men and one for women. On the first floor a Talmud school has been rebuilt. One of the items you can find there is a leather trunk from the time of the Catholic Monarchs, with two Stars of David on it. It is surprising that these stars have survived so long under the watchful eye of the Inquisition.
And you can't leave the city without visiting a treasure discovered by chance when some tourist apartments were being built. We are talking about the Water Synagogue. It is located on Calle Roque Rojas, outside the Jewish quarter. An amazing discovery was made as the construction work unearthed an entire synagogue that had remained buried for centuries. Enter its doors and go back in time to learn about the town's Jewish customs.
The Water Synagogue is made up of six rooms, including the purification room or Mikveh, a place dedicated to ritual baths that are so common in Jewish customs. Another of the rooms that is worth mentioning and can be visited is the Women's Gallery. A place of meditation, it was occupied by women during the ceremonies and rites, hidden behind lattices. The so-called home or room "of the Inquisitor" was probably what used to be the rabbi's quarters in the Middle Ages. It is said that it has been preserved to this day because later on it became the residence of a prominent member of the Inquisition, so no one dared to desecrate it.
