The Andalusian sardine: from the espeto to the moraga, followed by the Victorian anchovy
Two types of fish cooked on the beach in a unique way, especially on the Malaga coast, have humble origins, but today they offer a magnificent foodie experience. Sardines and anchovies have always been an abundant, affordable catch in the Mediterranean Sea, which fishermen prepared in a simple way, although their extraordinary quality and enormous flavour have made them food icons of Andalusia.
"Espetos", or skewers, are definitely one of the most common sights on the beach in summer. "Espetos" are sardines skewered on a rod and grilled, usually over olive wood because it doesn't smoke as much. Nowadays they are prepared in authorised boats next to beach bars and in the outdoor areas of restaurants. Back in the day, fishermen would cook them on the sand, on the beaches.
The process may seem simple, but the key is the hand of a good "espetero": the skewer must be inserted carefully and this requires great precision. There is an exact spot next to the spine, on the side, to spear the fish (no more than four or five of them together) and it must have a specific inclination when placing it on the fire, away from the smoke. It is only seasoned with coarse salt and you HAVE to eat it with your hands. This blue fish is cooked in a very similar way in the so-called "moragas", which are gatherings of friends or families on the beach, always around a campfire.
Another Costa del Sol classic is the so-called "Victorian anchovy", named after the time when it is caught: at the end of summer, around the day of the Virgen de la Victoria, in September. The size that can be fished has been restricted by law, because originally they used to catch small specimens, measuring 5 to 7 centimetres. Now they have to be larger in order to be more sustainable. But the key to their quality lies in the fat that they have accumulated before beginning their migration to the interior of the Mediterranean, thanks to the plankton they feed on in the Alboran Sea. This is what gives it them their unique flavour. The tradition is to fry them in plenty of extra virgin olive oil, and then accompany them with a roasted pepper salad. These are moments to be enjoyed!
