Sierra Morena Super Route

On this long, intense route you cross northern Andalusia from west to east, traversing dark lands with dense vegetation, hence the name Sierra Morena. It is the largest Mediterranean forest in Europe, as well as the best-preserved, and for good reason has been declared a Biosphere Reserve. Two, or rather three, spectacular days of motorcycling await you, riding through natural spaces, herds of livestock, wild fauna and a unique landscape consisting of hills, the ruins of mines, reservoirs, white farmhouses and villages teeming with life under the clearest skies in the Peninsula. A primitive land like few others, there is never a dull moment on this route and it will always fill your panniers with unrepeatable moments. Sierra Morena offers an evocative journey to the deepest roots of the Andalusian identity.

The route begins at Rosal de la Frontera, the gateway to Andalusia from the Portuguese Alentejo. The N-433 road follows a wide, simple route, passing livestock farms. After a few kilometres you will enter the Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche natural park, where the road is more winding, conforming to the relief of the mountains, which are becoming higher and closer. It is worth going into Aroche (stop 1), a village with steep, whitewashed streets stretching out below its castle, which dominates everything. You will also take a detour at Cortegana (stop 2) to ascend to another Banda Gallega castle, which offers impressive views.

Further on, after leaving the main road for a moment, you will visit Jabugo (stop 3), the capital of the Iberian ham industry, whose Protected Designation of Origin is its undisputed star attraction. This district also gives you the chance to enjoy many other products and dishes, such as Iberian pork products (meats and cured meats), migas, scrambled eggs with wild asparagus, pisto serrano (ratatouille with ham), game meats, mushrooms, goat’s cheese and exquisite desserts, in which chestnuts feature prominently. Back on the N-433, you then cross Galaroza to reach Aracena (stop 4), the Sierra’s district and tourist capital, where you can visit the famous Gruta de las Maravillas (Grotto of the Marvels). The road remains in very good conditions, although there is more and more traffic, especially at weekends. Be careful with your speed. After passing Higuera de la Sierra, you will turn off towards Zufre on the A-461, a rather slower and narrower road, but whose road surface is in very good condition, like nearly all the roads in the province of Huelva.

Leaving behind the castles of Zufre (stop 5) and Santa Olalla del Cala -an Asset of Cultural Interest- (stop 6), continue along a well-maintained road to El Real de la Jara, in the province of Seville. From this point on, the road becomes much narrower, winding and irregular, with no lane separation and completely deserted. The SE-179 allows you to cover almost the entire Sierra Morena Sevillana, especially the very long section leading to Cazalla de la Sierra. On this route, you really should stop at the Sierra Padrona and Puerto Quejigo vantage point (stop 7), greet the effigy of the Iberian wolf and admire the superb panorama it offers. After passing the El Pintado reservoir, you will reach Cazalla de la Sierra (stop 8), an historic town and the anisette capital of the Sierra Norte. The road is much improved, offering a fast, very beautiful route for motorcycling. Take care on sharp downhill curves, where you will reach great speeds.

The main attraction of the route is between Alanís and Fuente Obejuna. The A-447 has a long 55-kilometre stretch that starts off in good condition, before gradually deteriorating into nothing but a pothole, a trail road with the charm that comes from being abandoned. Skirting the natural park, you will encounter more deer and other wildlife than people in this natural and isolated environment, where you should ride with caution. It is advisable to ride slowly with plenty of fuel in the tank. Soon after passing the Valdeinfierno mines, the road improves over the last 20 kilometres before reaching Fuente Obejuna (stop 9).

The north of the province of Cordoba swaps mountains for an extensive plain dotted with old mining buildings. This whole Guadiato area, like its neighbours Los Pedroches and Sierra Morena in general, is a Starlight Destination due to its low light pollution and the potential for night-time observation. You will soon reach Peñarroya-Pueblonuevo on straight, quite busy roads, which lead you, the A-430, into the Pedroches Valley, where you will pass through Villanueva del Duque, Alcaracejos and Pozoblanco, the district capital. From this point, the focal point of the Jamón de Los Pedroches Protected Designation of Origin (Iberian ham), you then continue to Pedroche (stop 10) and Torrecampo, two beautiful, historic and picturesque villages. On the A-3200, a narrow, very beautiful road, turn south and ride through the immensity of the meadow. Cork oaks and holm oaks form a spectacular and lonely landscape, broken only by passing through the small villages of Conquista and Azuel. You then enter the Sierra de Cardeña y Montoro Natural Park. It is well worth stopping at Cardeña to try their unique and exquisite fried Iberian suckling (stop 11).

Leaving the hamlet of Cardeña behind, continue along the A-420 through the natural park on a winding, lonely road, which is wide, has very good asphalt and sharp bends that seems to make you dance on the bike. As you descend, you will have magnificent views of the Guadalquivir valley. The natural environment is spectacular: wild fauna and exuberant vegetation with extensive Pyrenean oak forests. After passing the dam of the River Yeguas, you will enter the province of Jaén through the once-famous spa town of Marmolejo. In the Guadalquivir valley, Mediterranean forest gives way to fruit trees and olive groves. From Marmolejo, heading east towards Andújar and Baños de la Encina (stop 12), you will ride on the A-4 highway’s service road and rural roads bursting with life, with many details to distract you from the monotony of riding.

The cuisine of the Sierra Morena de Jaén, as a rule, is based on three ingredients: game and goat’s meat, olive oil and a highly varied vegetable garden. Stews and casseroles, spinach, pipirrana (a pepper and tomato salad) and choto al ajillo (a goat and garlic stew) are among the main highlights of its cuisine. Andújar also claims to be the birthplace of flamenquín (fried meat and cheese roll). You should not leave Baños de la Encina without tasting its unique ‘cucharros’ (bread will olive oil) and ‘sobás’ (a traditional local cake made with pork lard), and in Guarromán you should try its ‘German’ sweets and samples its cheese, which was recognised as the best in the world for several years.

Passing through Bailén, a pottery capital if ever there was one, and the historic village of Baños de la Encina, on the last stretch you ride parallel to the highway, along farm roads connecting small farmhouses, villages and very active colonies of hamlets. Between Carboneros and La Carolina there is a stretch of highway running for about five kilometres, before you turn off onto a winding mountain road which leads you through Mediterranean woodland, the ruins of mining operations and old spas, to Santa Elena. After that, you ride through the historic Despeñaperros pass following the old route of the N-4, an impressive, very broad and completely deserted road: pristine nature at its most primitive. For the last part of the route, you will have to refuel since there are no petrol stations and, in cold and shady conditions, look out for ice. You now climb a spectacular mountain road, with asphalt in perfect condition and extremely winding. Parallel to the old Camino de Olavide, it leads you to Aldeaquemada and the La Cimbarra waterfall, where the route ends (stop 13). A mountain and pastoral people, they boast where it is inevitable to taste their galianos (gazpacho with rabbit), calderillo (a beef stew), camuña (a rabbit stew) and jarapos (a cod stew).

Baños de la Encina castle. Located on the small hill of El Cueto, which dominates the Historic Site, and built with tabiyya (lime-rich mud) in the late 12th century, when the Sierra Morena was the frontier between Castile and the Almohad caliphate. It is the best-preserved fortified complex from the era of the Caliphate of Cordoba, and one of Spain’s best-preserved Muslim castles.