Sierra de los Alcornoques route

The last virgin forest in Europe

There are routes that feel special, you enjoy them on your motorbike, and they are a challenge for the rider. This is surely one of them. On this route by the demanding roads of the Los Alcornocales natural park, you will find barely any straights to give you a rest. Doing it requires us to open all five senses to the road and, in return, it offers us much more than we could expect. Inside the park, the exuberant and primitive nature in the extreme southwest of the peninsula envelops us in a dense blanket of vegetation and it offers us an impressive festival of colours. You will roll through deep, dark, silent valleys surrounded by mountainous escarpments crowned by castles, giving rise to villages of an almost unspoilt white. And in the background is the Strait of Gibraltar, gifting us unrepeatable images. Without a doubt, it is a route to graduate in motorcycle touring.

On route

You will begin at Alcalá de Los Gazules (stop 1), gateway to the Los Alcornocales natural park. You will ascend the A-375, riding on very steep roads with worn-down asphalt and very little grip. You will have to be very attentive, especially when it is wet, which it quite often is in the sierras, which are the rainiest in the Iberian Peninsula. The route is very winding, containing sections with gravel and potholes. It is best to ride slowly, enjoying a landscape which is spectacular as few are, with forests covering every metre of the mountain and extremely leafy vegetation.

After reaching Puerto de Gáliz (stop 2), which has a country inn and a curious sanctuary, you head south on the C-3331 towards Jimena de La Frontera. On the way, it is recommended that you visit the ancient village of La Sauceda, an enchanted place from which lofty cliffs emerge that appear to have a life of their own. The road remains very winding, with dirty tarmac in poor condition, twisted into a magical blanket of changing light, amidst forests of cork oaks, holm oaks, pines and a host of aromatic, brightly coloured bushes. On rainy days in particular, the mist, humidity and moss-covered rocks appear to bring the forest to life: it seems to be inhabited by magical creatures hiding behind ancient trees.

Upon reaching the Las Asomadillas pass (stop 3), the views over the valley of the River Hozgarganta are absolutely spectacular. We would understand it if night were to fall on the route because we should not be surprised that the majestic Sierra de Cadiz has been declared a Starlight Destination: the quality of its skies, for night-time observation, is a genuine privilege for the traveller who dares to ride through these parts.

Now in the village of Jimena de la Frontera (stop 4), which has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site, it is worth walking through its picturesque streets and going up to its castle. We can take the chance to sample the mountain cuisine, which is based on game stews, such as venison and mushroom stew, venison loin with garlic or rice with rabbit, along with other local dishes, such as asparagus and Spanish oyster thistle soups and Cadiz collard greens. It would be unforgivable to leave without tasting its payoyo goat’s cheese.

The road, which now conveys much more traffic, becomes broad and fast, although the asphalt is still not very rough. In Castellar de la Frontera you can climb up to its castle by the marked turnoff; this is one of the few examples of a castle that remains inhabited to this day. Its streets are a journey into the past that will leave its mark on our memory, offering spectacular views of Campo de Gibraltar, with the Rock in the background. Further on, near Los Barrios, you leave the main road and turn onto a more winding one. The breeze in your face alerts you to the proximity of the sea. You now ride through the unknown and more solitary Campo de Gibraltar, but you must not let your guard down, since there are still stretches with potholes.

The last section in on the old national road, now C-440-a, which fell into disuse after the construction of the A-381 highway. The road has the charm of the decadent, where the lack of maintenance allows nature to break through the asphalt. You will pass through very picturesque spots, such as the natural enclave of Montera del Torero (literally “bullfighter’s cap) (stop 5), a perforated rock whose curious shape is reminiscent of that garment; or the tailwaters of the Charco Redondo and Barbate reservoirs, which will lead you back to the beautiful scenery of Alcalá de los Gazules, the superb end point of this route.

#castillocastellar selfie point

Hidden in the heart of Los Alcornocales natural park, Castellar Castle houses a spectacular fortress villa which, despite much upheaval, remains inhabited. It is a charming walled village presided over by its imposing alcazar. Declared an Asset of Cultural Interest, its narrow streets of whitewashed houses feature colourful flowerpots, flowers and bougainvilleas, lending the façades a graceful touch.