Cadiz Countryside route

This simple and pleasant trail route through the countryside and foothills of the Sierra de Cadiz has all the ingredients to leave you with the sweetest memories. You will travel through lands that evoke ancient battles, riding on easy tracks with some spicy sections. Picturesque villages steeped in history, episodes narrating bloody battles, castles, salt pans, reservoirs, dolmens and a magnificent natural setting that does not detract from its history, shall guide us through the most hidden area in the northern part of the province of Cadiz. A different view of the Cadiz countryside, far from asphalt, beginning and ending in the unique city of Arcos de la Frontera.

It begins at Arcos de la Frontera and heads north on a short stretch of the A-393. You then leave the asphalt and follow tracks, which are in good condition, leading to the village of Espera (stop 1). To the west, on your right, is the interesting Complejo Endorreico de las Lagunas de Espera nature reserve. From there, you can ascend to the Castle of Fatétar (stop 2), which offers impressive views of the village and the countryside.

You will then continue your route by combining roads no longer used for road traffic - look out for stones, gravel and holes - and farm tracks. In the rainy season they may be in poor condition, with puddles and wheel tracks, so take care! The route will take you past the village of Coto de Bornos and through the Arcos reservoir beauty spot. You may encounter difficulties if there is mud on the ground. Watch out!

Once you are in the village of Villamartín (stop 3), you might stop and enjoy the delicious gastronomy of this district. Its cuisine offers an impressive variety of tapas, stews and desserts. Of particular note are its tomato or asparagus ‘zopas,’ which are based on bread, without a broth, and yield a kind of dough or omelette with an unmistakable flavour. Also of note are the snails and cabrillas (a local variety of snails) in sauce.

Continuing on the route, at the end of the countryside, the Alberite Dolmen is well worth a visit. Just off the road, facing the Sierra de Cadiz, it rises up before you, showcasing 6,000 years of history. Incidentally, just a stone’s throw away is the Hacienda el Rosalejo, where the Guardia Civil was founded. A bit further on, the track becomes winding, albeit it is generally in good condition, and you will ride through lush vegetation, at the foot of the Sierra de Grazalema natural park. After passing the village of Prado del Rey (stop 4), you will reach the curious inland Iptuci salt pans, which are of Roman origin (stop 5).

You then return to your starting point on wide tracks with few potholes, where you should be careful with the wheel tracks that form when it rains. Alternating stretches of road and farm tracks, you will reach, almost without realising it, the end of the route: the impressive village of Arcos de la Frontera (stop 6). Overlooking its impressive cleft and standing guard over the Guadalete riverbed, its streets, which have been declared a Historic-Artistic Site, are well worth a leisurely visit, to enjoy every one of its stones and stories. Its culinary creations are no less appealing, above all its vegetable and pork cuisine. Don’t leave without enquiring about its abajao (asparagus soup), alboronía (pisto), its collard greens or ajo molinero (a dish of breadcrumbs, garlic and bitter oranges), and still less without trying them. 

Iptuci Roman salt pans. Used for 3,000 years to obtain salt, it is possible that they are Phoenician in origin, although they were developed and achieved their greatest splendour during the Roman era. There is an aqueduct, perhaps built by the Romans, which crosses a seasonal stream and which has been reconstructed, preserving the original elements. Still operating, these are the last inland salt pans in the province of Cadiz.