A stroll through Triana, between tradition and fervour.
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Art, folklore and especially "charisma” are the values that define this truly Andalusian neighbourhood of Seville.
On crossing the Isabel II Bridge, popularly known as the Triana Bridge, you reach "the other bank", which in former times was located outside the city walls and gave rise to a strong community spirit with its own identity, beyond that of the Seville of the Giralda. So much so that in olden times when someone from Triana had to go to the city centre he would say, "I'm going to Seville”.
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The streets of the Triana neighbourhood
Entering the Triana marks the start of an exciting journey to the core of the Andalusian soul. Visitors to the neighbourhood are received in the picturesque Plaza del Altozano, starting with one of its most emblematic chapels, the Virgen del Carmen, or as it is commonly known, "El mechero (Burner) de Triana". This little architectural gem is a reflection of the neighbourhood's pottery traditional and an essential visit for those devoted to the Triana.
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From the Plaza del Altozano, you descend towards the banks of the Guadalquivir toward the famous Calle Betis and overlooking it on the left, you'll find the sculpture of Juan Belmonte, one of the most renowned bullfighters in Spain and a pure-bred "Trianero". The truth is that Triana has been the cradle and home to a great number of famous artists, like Antonio Canales, Isabel Pantoja, Remedios Amaya and the great Marifé de Triana among many others.
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"And the sorrow of this love of mine was carried away on the Guadalquivir..." This is how Marifé de Triana referred to the river in "Coplas del Guadalquivir", which has been a source of inspiration for its famous artists.
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Strolling along the banks of the Guadalquivir, along the Calle Betis, you get a wonderful profile of the city which lies before you, monumental and luminous. Although another way to view this profile is on board one of many cruise boats that ply its waters.
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The Calle Betis will take you by surprise with a façade of whitewashed houses painted in bright colours, blues, yellows and reds… a real picture postcard.
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Throughout the neighbourhood, if you look carefully, you will come across ceramic plaques saying, "... lived here" or "... was born here"…
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… And magical places where the city can be seen from a different perspective and even in another colour, like this lookout point which provides us with cool shade to combat the high summer temperatures and gives us beautiful views of the Guadalquivir with the wonderful "Torre del Oro" (Golden Tower) in foreground.
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As we enter the heart of the neighbourhood, its narrow, cobbled are an ongoing reference to the presence of music, dance, bullfighting… and literature, as in the famous work by Miguel de Cervantes, ”Rinconete and Cortadillo”.
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Entrecalles, its stores, small shops, bars and even its pastry shops have a special charm that will make it very difficult for you not to succumb to the temptation of paying them a visit.
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From any point or perspective the streets of Triana will provide you with beautiful images to keep and treasure in your holiday albums. Whether they're narrow…
… or whether they open out onto wider streets.
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Fervour and devotion
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If there is one time in the year when Seville and specifically, the Triana neighbourhood, overflows with colour, passion, emotion and fervour, this is Easter Week. Then, the streets of the neighbourhood are decorated with flowers of a thousand colours and filled with the faithful who come out to see the statues venerated by the different Brotherhoods.
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The Brotherhood of La Esperanza de Triana resides at the delightful Chapel of Los Marineros and is one of the most venerated. In the interior, devotion is paid to the "Virgen de la Concepción", to the "Santísimo Cristo de las Tres Caídas", to " Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza" and to "San Juan Evangelista".
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Another of the more renowned brotherhoods is the Hermandad de la O, which resides in the church known as the Iglesia de la O. The tower of the temple will surprise you with its bright blue and yellow colours.
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In the Iglesia de la O devotion is paid to "María Santísima de la O" and to "Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno" with great fervour. On entering the church you can't help capturing the deep religious feeling of the Trianeros who come to pay their devotion.
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In the lively Calle San Jacinto you will find one of the most beautiful and unusual chapels in the Neighbourhood, the Capilla de la Estrella.
Here, devotion is paid to "María Santísima de la Estrella" and "Nuestro Padre Jesús de las Penas". Enter into this small church and contemplate the accomplished wood carvings that preside over it.
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Pottery from Triana
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Everything in the Triana Neighbourhood is covered with delightful, hand-made, brightly coloured tiles; the fact is that the origins of the potteries in the neighbourhood are really ancient, probably as old as the neighbourhood itself, although it was not until the flowering of Mudéjar art that this activity became the most significant in the district.
Nowadays you can visit the Pottery Museum of Triana to discover the mysteries of this art which is so deeply rooted in the soul of Triana. Certainly an obligatory stop when visiting the other bank of the Guadaquivir.
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Triana Market
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You can't visit Triana without taking a stroll through the market. A market full of history and above all… so much flavour!
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The building which houses it used to be the Castle of San Jorge, the seat of the inquisitorial tribunal and some elements of the same can still be seen today.
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On a stroll through the market you'll come across the finest delicacies from the gardens and fields of Andalusia. You'll get the chance to buy the best olive oil in the world.
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A stroll along the streets of the market, is a real experience for your senses. The aroma of cured ham and spices…
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… The colourful compositions created by the boxes of fruit and vegetables…
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… the delicious flavour of the delights you'll find in the pastry shops…
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… or the hustle and bustle of the people visiting the market and shopping while cheerfully chatting with the stallholders.